Rizman Ruzaini SS25 Channels ‘Perempuan Melayu Terakhir’

By Danial Martinus • 19 Jun 2025 in Hanger

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There’s something deeply poetic about how fashion can simultaneously anchor us in tradition and propel us forward. That’s exactly what ‘Mustika’, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection by Malaysian fashion powerhouse Rizman Ruzaini, manages to embody.

Founded by dynamic duo Rizman Nordin and Ruzaini Jamil, Maison Rizman Ruzaini has long carved a name for itself in the Malaysian fashion landscape. Known for dressing the who’s who of local (and international) celebrity and royalty circles, the brand’s DNA blends high drama with refined elegance.

This season, they’ve taken a more personal, nostalgic turn.

A fine balance between cultural preservation and modern progression

Mustika, named after the titular character in Erma Fatima’s 1999 cult classic Perempuan Melayu Terakhir (The Last Malay Woman), draws from the film’s emotional tension between holding on and letting go, between cultural preservation and modern progression.

In Malay, “Mustika” means a precious gem or treasure. And in the same vein, every piece in the collection looks and feels like something to be cherished.

The heart of the collection beats strongest in its re-imagination of the kebaya, an enduring symbol of femininity in the Nusantara region. Rizman Ruzaini gives its traditional aesthetic a contemporary edge.

Think elevated denim, strategic rhinestones, tambour beading, and structured silhouettes that subtly flirt with couture while still honouring the silhouette’s roots.

But what really makes this collection special is its origin story. Ruzaini Jamil, the brand’s Creative Director, found an old black-and-white photograph of his late grandmother, Tok Puteh Surin, in her youth, dressed in full kebaya and batik sarong glory alongside her circle of friends from the 1950s.

The image didn’t just spark inspiration; it stirred a longing to bring back that era’s elegance and effortless beauty. And with Mustika, he did just that.

The kebaya tops are decorated with embroidery styles reminiscent of the 1940s—where plant motifs reflected Malay and Jawi Peranakan tastes, and Chinese Peranakan designs leaned into animals as symbols of wealth and spirituality.

Rizman Ruzaini expertly weaves this heritage into the fabric of now, layering in modern embroidery techniques and textures that feel both fresh and familiar.

Batik, of course, makes its rightful appearance. And here, it’s treated with the reverence it deserves. Batik sarongs are not only preserved but elevated, given a contemporary facelift with rhinestones, beading, and smart tailoring that never feels gimmicky.

Some people might be inclined to write off Mustika as merely a seasonal collection. But if you take a closer, deeper look, it’s a statement that makes us think about how we can carry the past forward without erasing what made it so great.