It’s a play on perceptions and proportions this season for Marni during the launch of their FW16 collection at the Milan Fashion Week.
Portraying a firm yet emotional expression, as romanticism is sliced, tweaked and reconfigured, the decisive silhouette throughout the collection is highlighted with rounded and sculptured sleeves fastened with big buttons and crinkled ribbons that create a billowing sense of unravelling. Folding, knotting, and fastening lend a processual quality upon the pieces, as curved cuts define lines that barely touch the body.
Other different elements upon solemn capes and strict coats alternate with short and decorative dresses are included with ease and spontaneity. Whereas stirrup trousers, intarsia jumpers and compact knit tops add dynamism to technical faille dresses embroidered with big sequins of eerie preciousness.
Classic motifs are blown up and abstractive; marker swirls as feminine camouflage, outsized gingham grids, faded lozenges, colourful geometries, and Parshke flowers – instinctively combined with palettes of black, white, red, and grey, with dashes of tobacco and burgundy, upon subtle counterpoint of densities on fabrics both compact and firm, fluid and light, such as ripstop cotton, bonded crepe, wool silk crepe, and brightly embroidered mannish wools.